Response

Submitted by	Category	Response to	Chassis W163	Public
Ken K. Yee on 02/28/2002 at 07:33 PM	Accessories	How do you install the mud guards?

From Peter Schneider:

I finally got the modifications to the mud flap installation instructions done. In this version I have added pictures and some of my experiences. There is also a full parts listing. I hope this helps people out.

The first thing that I would like to say is that it is CRITICAL that you put the flaps on as soon as possible! This is perhaps more important in my neck of the woods than where you are. Here the number of rocks on the roads is devastating on the paint. The following photo can give you some perspective as to the damage two months of driving without can have.

ML Mud Flap Installation

The following instructions originate from others more pioneering than I. All I have done is added my notes and experiences along with photos to those instructions originally composed by Vernon and then modified by ML430. There have been some alterations to make the points fit with the photos as well. I hope these instructions cone in use for someone!

To start with you will want to begin at the front. This is because the pieces are more diverse but it is also an easier installation. It will also let you know if you are running short of screws by the time you get to the rears. For that reason I am introducing the inventory list here.

Parts List

Please keep in mind that the part numbers may change from model year to year. For this reason I am also including the pictures that go with the part numbers.

	Qty		Part No.		Description		Bin		Picture
	1		163-890-13-78		LR Mud ML02		W4C2
	1		163-890-14-78		RR Mud ML02		W4C3
	1		163-890-07-78		Mud Flap		W4C4
	1		163-890-08-78		Mud Flap		W4C5
	10		163-988-02-78		Clip		8C4E
	2		163-899-01-14		Mudflap BR		8C4G
	2		001-990-16-92		Rivet		8C4E
	4		163-988-03-78		Clip		8C4D
	4		129-994-08-45		Lock		8C4D
	12		914032-004222		Bolt		8C4F		Used with 163-988-02-78 and are normally black. Two are also used to connect to 163-899-01-14.
	6				Screw/Bolts				Used with 129-994-08-45 and are normally silver. Two are used to connect with 163-899-01-14.

FRONT

Relative to the back the front flaps are a breeze (thanks to some very important clues supplied by Vernon.

	Warning: The tiny plastic tab that is inserted between the painted fender and lower grey (at least on a ML320) rocker panel moulding looked like it could be broken off.

Trial fit, hold the flap up to the back of the front wheel opening and insert the tiny tab between where the painted fender/body meets the rocker panel moulding. You should see how the 2 inner most screw holes in the flap line up with 2 holes in the wheel well liner. The 3rd hole (facing the tire) and the back hole will have screws inserted thru and fasten to the 'U' shaped metal
bracket. The plastic ears on the top edge of the flap fold over the metal fender edge and are clamped with the solid clips.

1) First install the 'U' shaped metal piece. On the underside of the front piece of rocker panel moulding is a plastic rivet, pry the center pin from the rivet and then remove the rivet as shown in Pic.1-1 (the plastic trim piece will now be loose).

	Pic.1-1		Pic.1-2		Pic.1-3

Put the new Rivet (001-990-16-92) into the old Rivet's hole as shown in Pic.1-2. Now the Bracket (163-899-01-14) can be attached to the new Rivet. Align the bracket with the small screw holes on the ends facing fore and aft.

			Sample view of how the rivet and bracket will fit together.
				When the bracket is finally attached to the flap later on it will look like this.

2) Clean the area of fender and rocker panel where the double stick tape will go.

3) Slip the small clips (with the screw hole on top) over the plastic wheel well liner, aligned on the holes in the liner. See Pic.3-1.

	Pic.3-1

	Pic.5-1

4) Remove the protective backing from the double stick tape on the outer edge of the flap, position (careful with the tiny tab) and press firmly into place.

5) Insert and tighten the 2 screws that hold the flap to the 'U' shape metal bracket (163-899-01-14), insert and tighten the 2 screws on the inner edge. The outer screw should be a black one for aesthetic purposes. On the inside of the wheel well you can use a silver screw. Pic.5-1 shows the outside screw
attached.

6) Now the only hard part of installing the front mud flaps. Fold over the plastic ears on upper edge of the mud flap (Pic.6-1). Insert the solid clip (163-988-03-78), flat side toward tire, over the folded ears and into the slot in the mud flap (Pic.6-2), repeat for other clip. Once you have the clips started just press hard. This truly was the tough part. It works better to insert the clips with the flat side away from the tire. If you are doing this
right, the clips will not be visible when you are done (Pic.6-3).

	Pic.6-1		Pic.6-2		Pic.6-3

You are now done with the front flaps and can start on the rears.

REAR Flap Install

At first I had a problem with getting the 'T' shaped clips aligned for the
screw holes.

Unless you remove the wheel, a Phillips screw driver with a short (~1') blade
will be needed for these steps. Another route is to take and make a socket set
setup. The following photo shows what I did.

	My Socket Screw Driver Setup.

1) Trial fit, hold the flap up to the back of the rear wheel well. You should notice the 4 holes facing the tire, 4 of the 'T' clips (part 163-988-02-78) attach to the plastic skirt/lower fender (behind) and (hopefully) line up with these holes. The 5th 'T' clip goes behind the flap and clips onto a plastic 'shelf' (can be positioned after the flap is attached with the 4 screws in front). And the cable (that's always in the way) is pulled up with the eye end being inserted over a stud protruding from the frame/body (cable position is almost vertical).

Note: You do not receive any nuts for retaining the cable on this stud in my bag-o-parts from the dealer. (if my memory serves me correct it was either a 11 or 13mm bolt that is used.) Apparently Clair included the 10mm nuts for this.

2) Position 'T' clips (part 163-988-02-78) along plastic fender skirt with the screw hole 'leaning away' from the tire. You should notice that on the body moulding there are some notches that protrude out (these are very small like an arrow). The clips should work out that the top edge of the clip sits just below the notch. A trial loose fit should confirm for you as to exactly where they fit. You should see the notches in Pic.2-1

	Pic.2-1

3) Then press the 'T' clips over the skirt. (you might consider doing 1, insert and partially tighten screw(s), position the next clip, etc). This part can be very hard on the hands and more specifically the fingers.

4) Clean area where edge (with double stick tape backing) contacts the fender skirt (I used alcohol).

5) Now remove the protective covering from the double stick tape along the edges of the flap and firmly press the flap into position, insert and tighten the 4 front screws.

6) Now position and press (over the plastic shelf) into place the rear (5th) 'T' clip 'leaning up', insert and tighten screw. For this one I actually used the smaller clip (part 129-994-08-45) as it seamed to fit better. In Pic.6-1 you can see how I attached it.

	Pic.6-1

7) Pull the cable up to the under body stud and secure with a self-locking nut (or jam nuts etc.), the cable should provide some upward tension on the flap.

	Pic.7-1

That should now take care of the rear flaps.